Getting Dressed

One convenient way to put on your hockey equipment is using the inside-out rule, so that equipment that fits closest to your body goes on first. Below is a list of equipment that I use, in the order of wearing.

1. Undershirt: No, I'm not talking about white cotton Hanes. The undershirt is worn under the shoulder and elbow pads to wick moisture away from your body so you feel drier throughout the game. It also serves to prevent your pads from becoming completely soaked with your sweat, and decreases long term olfactory distress. I recommend one of the "hi-tech" fabrics that specifically is designed for this purpose. Long sleeve versus short sleeve is a matter of personal preference. Cotton is not a good choice because is doesn't wick very well.
2. Underpants: Again, same function as the undershirt, except in a compression short or long-johns format. Some people like the unitard one-piece available from some hockey stores.
3. Socks: At this point, I know you're saying, socks are socks, but they're not. One of the worst feelings during a hockey game is a blister on your foot. You know it's there, you know it's getting bigger, you know you can't do anything about it. You can prevent blisters from happening by fitting your skates properly (see skates below) so that you can wear a single pair of thin socks. I like to use a fresh pair (unworn since the last wash) so that there is not excessive stretching and bunching of the material (thus leading to blisters). I also choose a sock that wicks away moisture from my foot. Unless you are very comfortable with the fit of your skates and they have been broken in to your foot, barefoot may not be such a great idea.
4. Protective cup (pelvic protector): A standard jock strap is functional, provided the cup fits properly. Personal preference as to whether it goes over or under regular underwear. To avoid this minor dilemma, you can choose a combination underwear/cup combo, either in a compression short or boxer short format. The better ones also have Velcro strips or metal clips to hold up your hockey socks, so you can avoid wearing a pair of hockey sock garters (see next).
5. Garter: The stockingWorn around the waist with hanging straps with clips to hold up your hockey socks. Can be dispensed with if combination short/cup worn (see prior).
6. Shin pads: Finally, a piece of equipment that you've paid a lot for. Shin pads should fit so that while the kneecup is over your kneecap, the bottom of the pad should meet with the top of your skates. There are various charts to try to fit shinpads based on various measurements, but the most surefire way to get a proper fit is to try on the pads with your skates on. Alternatively, you could make a mark on your ankle where your skates end and use that as a reference point when trying on pads. Most shin pads have a left and right that fit slightly differently, and the higher end ones have a anti-hyperextension feature, and maybe some extra calf protection in the back. Some shin pads come with straps, but you'll need additional straps wrapped around the pads UNDER your hockey socks, or hockey tape wrapped OVER your hockey socks to keep the pads in place.
7. Hockey stockings: These go over your shin pads and are held up by the Velcro or clips on your combination shorts or by the clips on your hockey garter. There are various lengths to the socks, but on average, by CCM standards, most adult male players would be "senior". Shorter players would be "intermediate", while really tall players would wear "professional". Note that the length designations have no real correlation with actual hockey ability. Younger players from Long Island may want to wear longer socks so that they can pull them over the outside of their skates later for that Long Island hockey look.
8. Hockey pants: Self-explanatory. These go where regular pants go. The length of the pants should come down to the top of your shin pads. Some of them have zippers on the legs so that you can put on your skates first, and then put on your pants. If you don't have this feature and give this a try, duct tape might become an additional accessory for your pants. All of them come with a belt and buttons for suspenders, which are bought separately. Personal preference as to which one, or both, to use. Using neither is not recommended.
9. Hockey skates: This is your most important piece of equipment, and should be fitted to your feet properly for good support. The length of the skate should be such that when you kick your ankle back to the rear of the skate, your toes should be just shy of the front of the skate, so that they "feather" the toecap. The skate should not be too narrow such that it compresses your arch vertically when the skates are laced up, nor should it be too wide such that your feet float from side to side. When laced up tightly, your ankles should be locked down so that you cannot lift your heel up from the sole of the skate. The whole objective of proper skate fitting is to make the blade of the skate seem to be "welded" to the bottom of your foot. Various manufacturers use different size references and different lasts, so that it is essential that you TRY ON THE SKATE yourself to get a good fit. For example, if you wear a size 9 sneaker, your skate size would be 8.5-9 in Missions, 8.0-8.5 in Nikes, and 7.5-8.0 in Bauers, CCMs, Kohos, or Eastons. Furthermore, Missions, Nikes, Eastons, and Bauers tend to run narrow, while CCMs and Kohos tend to run wide. A player comfortable in a CCM D width might have to get a Mission EE width or a Bauer E/EE width. Most stores will give you a D width unless you ask for a wider or narrower width, and many lower end model skates come only as a D. I've hear rumors that the latest Bauer/Nike products use a wider last for their 2001 model lineup to address this problem. Used skates can be an affordable option if you are unsure as to which skate to settle on. Check the ankles to see if they still have significant support left. Check the blade holder for excessive corrosion and liftoff from the sole of the skate. Check the blade itself for remaining blade life. Many times you can find a high end used skate with plenty of life left for the same or lesser cost than a brand new low end skate.
10. Elbow pads: The cup should wrap comfortably around your elbow, and the pad should stay in place while you extend and flex your forearm. Most pads come with a wrap around your upper arm for bicep protection, and many have an extended wrap around your lower arm for forearm protection. When starting out, you'll fall on your back and elbows more, so make sure the pads fit properly.
11. Shoulder pads: The shoulder caps should rest directly over the points of your shoulder, and the chest and back pieces should hug your torso. Bicep protectors are present on virtually all modern shoulder pad sets, and should fit over the bicep protectors of your elbow pads. The more protective pads have hard plastic in the chest, back, and bicep areas to supplement the existing foam padding, as well as a thicker roll around the neck for clavicle protection. Some people put on an additional neck or throat protector at this time. These might prevent the freak accident of having your carotid artery cut by a skate after you have fallen down. The more protection you choose to carry, the heavier and more restrictive the shoulder pads. It is not necessary to dress like a linebacker in a non-check league. Just remember not to antagonize the 6'4" defensive goon on the other team if you choose to be lighter on your protection.
12. Hockey jersey: At last, the hard part is over. Now you can put on your jersey. The jersey should be one size larger than your regular shirt size, since it has to go over your shoulder and elbow pads. The lower end numbers, like 00, 1, 2, and 3 are usually goalie numbers. If you choose a number like 66 (Lemieux), 88 (Lindros), and 99 (Gretzky), you better have some skills to back it up. The really "cool" players come out of the locker room without putting on their jersey, so they can see whether they're going to be light or dark in the next open hockey session.
13. Hockey gloves: The two basic styles of glove are long cuff and short cuff. The long cuff gloves are the old style gloves with laces. They have more protection for the forearm because the longer cuff runs up over their elbow pads. The short cuff gloves are what most gloves are today. The cuff ends around the mid forearm for extra hand mobility, so that you either have to have an elbow pad that extends down the forearm, or a set of wristbands with plastic in them, known in parlance as "slash protectors". Gloves should fit so that your fingers almost, but not quite, make it to the ends of the fingers on the gloves. The thumb should have some kind of hard shell that prevents hyperextension of the thumb. Nylon gloves are lighter and break in easier. Leather gloves are more durable in the long run. Higher end gloves use denser foams and plastic pieces to protect against hard slashes. Some of them have a Coolmax lining to wick away moisture from your hand. The tightness or looseness of the glove is largely a matter of personal preference.
14. Helmet: Got to protect that noggin! You'll want a hockey helmet that's approved by CSA or HECC for use in ice hockey. Street hockey helmets by Mylec and Protec are excluded, as is the helmet used by the Great One himself. The fit of the helmet should be snug so that it doesn't shift around, but not so tight that it cuts off the circulation to your scalp. If the external shell is cracked, the helmet is no good. Use only mild soap and water to clean the helmet, solvents can weaken the shell.
15. Cage/shield: Full face protection is a must. You can purchase the cage/shield as part of a helmet combo, or if you go it alone, remember the model and size of your helmet so that the cage/shield will fit properly. A wire cage has lines that might be distracting, but is more durable and has better ventilation than a shield. A shield give you good vision, but you must take extra care not to scratch it up on the inside and outside. It can also fog up and ventilation through the shield can sometimes be less than adequate. Full shields are also a bit heavier than a cage.
16. Mouth guard: Another must have! These are not so much for your teeth as they are to cushion your jaw and prevent concussions and bad bites on your tongue. Eric Lindros didn't like them, but I hope you will. You'll find it really handy when you're handling the puck and suddenly realize a large shadow has fallen across your feet. When wearing one, you'll sound a lot like a NYC subway conductor, so don't be surprised if all your teammates seem to be ignoring you.
17. Hockey stick: This is your magic wand, used to make the puck dance according to your slightest whim. If you like to use your stick with your left hand on top and your right hand in the middle, then you shoot right. If you like to use your stick the opposite way, the you shoot left. Some players use their dominant hand on the top of the stick because this is the stick control hand; these players end up shooting the opposite way of their "handedness". Other players like to use their dominant hand in the middle of the stick because this is the power hand; these players shoot the same way as their "handedness". In the end, it is a matter of personal preference. Wood sticks are a good way to start out before you decide what sort of blade you like. The length of the stick, when the shaft is straight up, should end near your chin when you are wearing your skates. A slightly longer stick gives you more reach for checking and more power in your shot. A slightly shorter stick is better for stickhandling. The blade of the stick should be made of wood or graphite. Outdoor hockey sticks with ABS (plastic) blades are designed for use with a street hockey ball or puck and are very durable; however, they lack the stiffness required to handle and shoot an ince hockey puck, which is much heavier. Taping up the end of the stick gives you better grip and control. Taping up the blade of the stick gives a better feel for the puck. You can check the wear of the blade to see if the lie of the stick is correct for your style of play. If the blade is wearing near the toe, then your stick lie is too flat. If the blade is wearing near the heel, then your stick lie is too upright.
18. Miscellaneous:
    • Water bottle to replenish fluids lost during to game.
    • Hockey tape for your stick and your hockey socks.
    • Skate guards to protect your blades from becoming prematurely dull and the rest of your equipment from getting cut up. Just remember to take them off before getting on the ice.
    • Skate laces so that you can still skate if the laces on your skates break before the game.
    • Lace tightener so you won't get calluses on the sides of your little fingers
19. Equipment care: It is very important to dry out all your equipment after a game to prolong its life and avoid excessive odor. Wet equipment in a hockey bag is a good breeding ground for fungus and bacteria, leading to bad smells and equipment rot. Opening the zipper of your equipment bag and throwing it into the closet doesn't count. Neither does keeping it in the trunk of your car with the heater/air conditioner on high. Lay out all your equipment and blow a fan over it to help it dry quicker. There are special equipment stands that look like fancy hat racks that you can use as well. You should wipe down your skates and loosen the laces to open up the tongue for quicker drying. The footbed should be removed so that the copper and steel rivets won't corrode.

Well, that's about it for dressing for hockey. It seems like a lot to remember, but once you've been in the locker room a few times, the whole procedure should take about five to ten minutes. The longest time will then be spent on getting your laces on your skates just right. Who knows, maybe you'll develop a pre-game ritual of your own design. For all of our sakes, make sure it involves FRESH underwear and socks.

Thanks to John Pui for writing this guide.